January is always an exciting time for watch lovers because of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie show (SIHH). Like the years before, this year saw the brands showcase a bevy of new watches, including those by several independent brands new to the show. Honestly, it’s difficult for the casual watch lover to keep up with the number of new releases, but that’s what our bi-weekly round-ups are for. In this roundup, join us as we recap the highlights from SIHH 2016, as well as share our top 10 watches from this year’s show. Next, we take a closer look at what I think are the standout pieces of this year.
SIHH 2016 aside, we also explore the increasingly important role that typography plays in watch design, and also learn more about the earliest Rolex Submariners. Finally, we conclude by learning about the significance of the Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 and also revisiting the Apple Watch.
1. Top 10 Watches Of SIHH 2016 & Show Report
With a movement only 4mm thick (that’s really 2.6mm plus the 1.4mm module), not to mention residing in the Slim d’Hermès set, the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch is likely to be lean. Unfortunately, Hermès doesn’t provide the measurement on just how lean, but knowing that the 30m-water-resistant case is a discreet 39.5mm broad (same diameter as the three-hand Slim d’Hermès models), we could get some sense of its general measurements. The brand’s images don’t include among the caseback, but we are told that it gives a view of the superbly decorated H1950 movement.Aside from the time and perpetual calendar, the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch includes a moon phase indicator ( a lot of perpetual calendars do) with mother-of-pearl moon from aventurine skies, as well as another time zone subdial at 12-hour format at 6 o’clock with accompanying day-night indicator window. It’s that small, around aperture in the subdial’s 12:30. Although I typically prefer to find a running seconds hand, and would also locate a day-of-the-week indicator useful on a watch like this, we would not want to mess things up a lot, now would we? If you do not understand, a perpetual calendar keeps track of all of the quirks of the Gregorian calendar, such as varying number of times in a month and even leap years. So as long as you keep the watch running and in good shape, at least theoretically, it will remain true for a very long time.It is too easy for watch enthusiasts to discount watches from brands such as Hermès as fashion brands and overlook some otherwise intriguing products. These brands should have experience in design, in least, and that’s something some established watch manufacturers sometimes could use a little more of. The Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine comes on an Abyss blue alligator strap to match the blue dial to get a price of $33,500 or US $39,900 (euros obviously being the way to go).
SIHH 2016 was the 26th edition of the show and saw the brands showcase their latest pieces alongside nine celebrated independent watchmakers, including Laurent Ferrier, De Bethune, HYT and more. Now that SIHH 2016 has concluded, here’s an overview of the show, as well as ten of the most important watches that we saw there.
2. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Watch Hands-On
Every year, A. Lange & Söhne releases a new hero watch – an outstanding piece that stands out amongst the rest of its new watches. For 2016, the hero watch was undoubtedly the new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. If you can’t already tell, it’s a Datograph with perpetual calendar complication and a tourbillon. Technically, it isn’t anything new, but what’s really outstanding about the watch is the movement itself. Already, the Datograph’s caliber L.951.6 is a visually arresting movement, but the new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon’s L.952.2 takes things to another level. If looking at this new movement doesn’t get you interested in watches, then all hope is lost.
3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Watches Hands-On
The most interesting watch from Audermars Piguet this year, is the new Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked watch. Royal Oaks with skeletonized dials are not new, but what’s intriguing about this watch is that it has two balance wheels that are mounted side-by-side. It is based on the theory of resonance, where it is thought that two balance wheels beating with each other will be keep able to keep more accurate time by regulating each other, and also be able to counteract outside disturbances more easily.I know of only two watchmakers, F.P. Journe and Haldimann, who have made watches based on this principle, which makes the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked watch all the more unique.
4. New Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Watches For SIHH 2016 Hands-On
For 2016, there’s an emphasis from Panerai on growing its popular Radiomir 1940 collection, so they are releasing four new Radiomir 1940 watches featuring the GMT complication. There are two distinct versions – the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio and the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio – and each version will have two distinct types of dials. All four will also be powered by variants of Panerai’s new P.4000 movement which features a micro-rotor, which also means that they’ll be relatively thin (for a Panerai, at least). Have a good look at these new watches here.
5. Cartier Drive De Cartier Watch Hands-On
Personally, I think a lot of Cartier’s expertise with watch aesthetics really lies with its case designs. The Tank, Santos, and Ballon Bleu, are all iconic case designs in their own right. And last year, Cartier released the Clé de Cartier, which is a cushion-shaped case with a distinctive crown inspired by the key. This year, Cartier has introduced yet another new design and it is called the Drive de Cartier. Targeted at men, the new Cartier Drive is inspired by vintage automobiles (the name should already be a giveaway). The Drive is cushion-shaped like last year’s Clé de Cartier, but more masculine, and yet thin and quite elegant-looking all at the same time. Will this be a hit for Cartier?
6. Greubel Forsey Signature 1 Watch Hands-On
Greubel Forsey is known for its dedication to quality and the company prides itself on its single-minded approach to hand-finishing its watches to the highest standards. However, even they are not immune to the realities of the present economic climate. To appeal to a wider audience, Greubel Forsey released the Signature 1 at SIHH 2016. The Signature 1 is their “simplest” watch to date, but no effort has been spared in making the watch, and the Signature 1 possesses all of the high-end hand-finishing traits that long-time customers have come to expect from the brand. Don’t just take our word for it, we have the photos to prove it here.
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